Day 19

Day 19, the final day of the the tour, should have seen these two intrepid explorers ride triumphantly back into Blighty, heads held high. As it turned out, they pretty much crept in the back entrance, due to Eurotunnel's inexplicable handling of the queueing system.

Knutr had somehow managed to transport himself onto the train before the one we were scheduled to leave on, meaning he was already under the Channel, whilst I was still sitting waiting for him. A rather disappointing end to the 19 days, as we both rode home separately. Still, it did give me the chance to stretch the Sprint's legs on the M20, after a good couple of weeks 'crawling' around Scandinavia.

Arriving back, the bikes were unpacked and parked up in the garage. The sprint had covered 3,622.5 miles since rolling off the driveway on 2nd July. Apart from the scare with the alarm on our fuel stop in Aurlandsvengen, and losing a headlamp bulb, she hadn't missed a beat. I adjusted the chain once and re-oiled it once. Apart from that, she just needed fuelling up. Knutr's Shadow too, had been faultless and he, of course, still had another four hundred odd miles to go.

That evening we had the customary end of tour dinner, another trip to the chinese in the village and Knutr finished off his Murphy's beers I'd bought for him. Four cans, for the price of one in Norway!

As the dust settles, the washing gets done and the photos get uploaded, life gets back to normal and thoughts turn to the next adventure. Where to next?

As I said before, I'll pop up some stats very soon and also hope to get some photos together for access from the blog, so the curtain isn't down just yet.

In the meantime though, I'd just like to say thanks for reading and I'll leave you with a picture of the Trollstigen.

Odinn's Log 19.7

Well, explain that to me. Can only be attributed to the luck of the Irish.

Parked up waiting for Knutr, I went for a wee.  Came out, no sign of him. Checked phone, just as the battery died. Thought I saw a message from Knutr as the screen faded.

Call to board came on, so I headed through. Maybe with the delay at passport control they have sent him straight through I thought. I get through, still no sign. I try to hook phone up to power but get waved on. On the platform I again attempt to connect the phone and get told we're going up front so no time, as we roll straight on.

Once in the carriage, I was able to get the phone some power. Just enough to read a message from Knutr, saying he is on board and I'm to wait for him. OK, I'm up front, I reply.

As we pulled out it dawned on me that his message had come before I left the car park, so he might be on a different train.

At Folkestone I waited until the eurotunnel van came up the ramp. As I suspected, no Knutr.

I made my way home, rolling up to see Knutr sitting outside.

How on earth? You'll have to ask him about that.

With us both safely back in Chatham, the tour was over. 

I'll back with some stats, so check back again soon.

Odinn's Log 19 6

Refreshed and cooled down, our next stop was Bruges. We encountered a shower or two on the way and even once there but we quickly found a place to park (after a tomtom issue this time) and walked into the market square, so Knutr could take some photos.

Back on the road, we had the blast down to Calais. I always like this part of any trip. Not sure why, the road isn't that great and there's the fiasco with the French security check, where they shunt everything off the motorway, round a roundabout and back on again, just so four gendarmes can look at you! Tossers.

Arrived at Le Tunnel with a bit of time to spare. I sailed through check in and passport control. Knutr last seen was a bit behind queuing for British passport control.

Next stop Blighty.

Odinn's Log, 19.5

Leaving Steenbergen we made a pit stop so Knutr could fuel up. The sky up ahead looked really threatening, so I decided to go for full wets. Knutr chose intermediates. As it turned out, the latter choice was probably the right one, because despite some small showers, the weather was generally ok.

This left me overheating and sweating for most of the next stint, which included negotiating Antwerp.

The traffic on the Antwerp ring road was chocca as usual. We were almost clear when I peeled off too early and took us into some small suburb. At first I thought I could bluff it out by pulling in a garage for a coffee stop but the garage was just pumps, no shop or anything.

The fiasco that followed, taking 3 further wrong turns can only be attrubuted to my overheating and misreading Tomtom. I can't even blame the equipment this time. Anyway after wasting the best part of 20 minutes trying to get back on track, we finally got back on the correct road, probably just a few hundred metres from where I went wrong. Now stopped for fuel and lunch stop, where the waterproofs have been stowed.

Phew!

Odinn's Log 19.4

From the memorial it was on to the crash site of the mosquito in which he died and the streets named after him and his co-pilot Warwick.

Odinn's Log, 19.3

Having visited the grave of  Guy Gibson, we continued to a local park where there is a memorial, consisting of a three bladed propeller mounted on a stone plinth.

Next up his crash site.

Odinn's Log, 19.2

Leggings went on and that seems to have been the right move. Stopped in Steenbergen, at the cemetery. Paying our respects to THE most famous Dambuster, Wing Commander Guy Gibson.

Odinn's Log, 19.1

Fuel stop, first of several today. Also adjusting luggage, as I noticed my pannier had popped open slightly.

Sky looking very threatening, so watetproofs on as a precaution.

Day 18

Day 18 started in glorious sunshine and ended the same way!

Not many miles today and what we did were mainly motorway miles, so we took it easy. Stops were made for fuel, on the djik by the Zuiderzee and at a cheese factory. We had scheduled another fuel stop but strangely, the pumps were on one side of the road, the pay kiosk on the other. Not sure how that was supposed to work, so we moved on. Then the next was on the wrong side of the dual carriageway.Thanks Tomtom.We'll make an early stop tomorrow.

We've quite a few miles to go tomorrow and a deadline to hit, the eurotunnel crossing back to blighty, so I'll have to keep my eye on timings, seeing we have a few stops planned.

We made the most of the few hours we had in Amsterdam, taking a tram to Centraal Station and then walking up to the flower market. By the time we'd had a couple of beers and some KFC dinner, it was almost Knutr's bedtime, so we had a very brief scout around the red light district before heading back. Knutr was happy to see one girl in the window but we may as well have not bothered. Probably too early for them. We saw more in the street in Oslo!

So, our last day of the tour begins tomorrow. It's not clear what the weather will do just yet but we'll be ready for rain if it comes. All in all though, we've been pretty fortunate with the weather.

Till tomorrow then, I'll leave you with the sun setting over Amsterdam and for the last time on the Wild Hogs Scaninavian Tour.

Odinn's Log, 18.3

Next stop, a cheese and clogs factory in Edam. Didn't look like they were really prepared for visitors. Guy gave a half hearted or should that be arsed guided tour. I tried my hand at making a clog with an old tool (not Knutr), then we both sampled some cheeses. Knutr bought one made with stinging nettles, which are apparently good for you, unless you fall in a clump of them in your swimming trunks, that is.

As we left the sky looked very dark and we did have a few spots. That means, it has rained in every single one of the 7 countries we been in on the tour.

Luckily, we just grazed the edge of the cloud and it was soon dry again.

Very muggy in Amsterdam. Landlord showed a picture of Rotterdam earlier. Looked to be a terrible storm raging, so we may get wet later, on our final night of the tour.

Odinn's Log, 18.2

Arrived at the Breezanddijk. Probably as technologically marvellous, as the Oresund bridge/tunnel.

Odinn's Log, 18.1

We are blessed with warm dry weather again as we begin our penultimate day on tour.

Our first stop of the day was for fuel, 10 miles before Gronningen. The route has been all motorway. I didn't plan any particular route for today, just put in our stops, so we are at the mercy of TomTom.  We're making a quick comfort break before our next scheduled stop midway along the Breezanddijk.

Day 17

A brilliant day riding cross country today. Stopping off to walk around Gluckstadt, a 400 year old former capital of the Holstein lands on the banks of the lower Elbe, we took in the harbour, along which many original buildings still stand. Then a short way down stream, took the ferry across the mighty river.

The ride on the other side was just as good, with the sun now blazing. Marred only by a slight detour, due a) to me missing a turnoff (it's not easy without the voice directions, now cardo has packed up) and b) the road just after being closed for roadworks. Still, we were soon back on track.

The final part of the journey was almost dead straight for well over 30 miles I reckon, as we ran parallel with the Kusten Kanal. It was great for overtaking the slower traffic and also watching the antics of the German car drivers. Mind you, we had to be wary as they sometimes came towards us on our side of the road. I had to dab the brakes once for one such clown.

Papenburg where we are staying is a former ship building town and there are quite a few references around the hotel, which sits by a canal. The surroundings though all look pretty modern, so I'm wondering if shipyards, etc were reclaimed.

A walk took us up to a huge windmill, our second of the day and into Jameson's Pub. Trying to be Irish, it failed, mainly because of the English red telephone box inside.  We grabbed a couple of beers and sat outside overlooking a park and lake, before finding our way to McDs for our tea. The only other eatery we saw open was Turkish and we didn't fancy that after Greek last night.

On our travels, we spotted an Aston Martin, with UK plates on it. Not a model I recognised, a Z(?) with a rear light cluster I'd never seen before either. Stranger still, it was left hand drive. Blow me though, if when we got back to the hotel, there wasn't a Vanquish, again with UK plates and again with left hand drive. If anyone can enlighten me, feel free.

We popped into the bar for another beer and sat watching this strangely dressed, i.e. in green shirt, trousers, jacket and socks (not all the same shade though) man, with 3 young women. Reminded us of a guy we saw in Athlone back in 2012, a peacock (more cock actually) surrounded by 3 young women.

Tomorrow we are making our way to Amsterdam. Hopefully the weather will be fine, though I suspect we may run into a rain storm. Fingers crossed.

Odinn's Log, 17.4

Arrived at our hotel after a great day of riding. Weather has been glorious again and much warmer than we were expecting.

The ride wasn't without incident though. I missed a turnoff that put us on the end of a traffic queue, as roadworks closed the dual carriageway. As we have found before in Germany, they don't always sign a diversion, so I had to reprogram Tomtom to find an alternative. For a while it was a bit fraught not knowing if we were heading in the right direction but once we picked up one of my waypoints I could relax.

The last part of the journey was really good, dare I say it, on one of the longest straight roads I've ridden since Route 66. Straight, yes  built alongside a canal and running for easily 10 miles. Superb for overtaking, as you could see for hundreds of yards. Who said you can only have fun on a motorcycle on twisty roads?

So here we are in Pappenburg, with our room overlooking a canal.

2 more days to go. ☹

Odinn's Log, 17.3

Might have been as many 5 ferries servicing that Elbe crossing.

Since then we have been scooting along some lovely country lanes.  Sun is out now and it's a pleasure to be riding.

Stopped for the necessities, fuel, food and fluid download!

I have over 3k miles up, since leaving blighty. Still a few more to go.

Odinn's Log, 17.2

On the ferry across the Elbe. A huge river.

Forgot to say earlier, that my cardo headset has packed up! 2nd one in as many tours. Think the rain must have somehow got into it. Had some crackling during that journey. Then next day seemed to be ok but lost charge quickly. After being on charge last night, it seems to have died completely. Luckily on 2.5 days to go without Jane guiding me.

This river is so wide they have 3 ferries in operation. Long queue to get on. Old boy on a bicycle waved to us to go up the front. We did and rode straight on. Result!

Odinn's Log, 17.1

Dry if overcast start to the day.  First stop to photograph a thatched windmill in the next town.  Stopped bikes in side of the road , cue car one way, massive tractor and trailer the other. Car backed off and we moved bikes into someone's driveway.

Back on the road, I made a fuel stop. No problem with credit card today.

Apart from a temporary stop at a level crossing, we have been bowling along some nice country lanes. Now stopped in Gluckstadt, a town on the banks of the  Elbe, known for its pretty square and harbour.

Ferry next up.

Day 16

Another day of motorway miles. Highlight of the trip had to be the toll bridge over the Great Belt. The view was quite something, everything in fact, that the Oresund crossing should have been yesterday. The motorway was very busy, full of campers, caravans and lorries, so we were kept busy, nipping out to pass, then in again as the faster traffic came up behind.

We joined the 7 route, which we had used on the way up 2 weeks ago and were soon crossing the German border. Denmark to Germany, no problems, except one. That being the switch from 110kph speed limit, to unlimited autobahn. You need to switch mindset slightly, as everything is soon moving that much faster. The border crossing going into Denmark though, was even worse than when we came up, with huge tailbacks waiting to go through the makeshift border control. I don't see the point. 

You enter Germany near Flensburg. They have a brewery there and it just so happens that the hotel has a fridge stocked full of Flensburger beer, which we shall be sampling later.  We have separate rooms here, mainly because they were such good value, about £40 per night. A far cry from the £100+ we have been paying in parts of Norway. The rooms are really spacious, least mine is. I booked 2 singles but I have twin beds in mine, a desk and loads of space. Tour guide perks ;-)

The downside of the hotel, is they don't do evening meals. Add to that, the fact it is in the middle of nowhere and the nearest restaurant is closed on Monday, it leaves us no option but to ride out for some dinner. Those beers will have to wait till we get back! The nearest open restaurant is about 6km up the road and is Greek. There seems to be a few Greek restaurants in this area for some reason. That opens at 17:00, so we'll be togging up soon, to pop up the road.

After a couple of motorway days, I have planned a cross country route tomorrow. If we stuck to motorways, we could probably be at the hotel in under 3 hours. That's not that much use, when you can't check in for hours though. The route I've planned will take double the time and includes the final ferry crossing of the tour, crossing the river Elbe. It'll keep us away from the maniacs on the autobahn too.

Just 3 nights of the tour left. I'll have to sart thinking about the next one!

Odinn's Log, 16.3

At the service area there were about half a dozen long lorries loaded with blades from wind turbines. It's not the first time we've seen them, so they must be into it in a big way round here. There was also a lorry with a tank on the back.

Before leaving I went to use the toilet but walked into the ladies  by mistake. Their was a guy standing in front of the sign and I just assumed that was the gents. No women in there, so no harm done and a tactical withdrawal made without incident!

Have now arrived at our hotel. The place is massive yet we seem to be the only guests. To be fair, we were early for check in. Seems to be in the middle of nowhere, so think we'll be staying put tonight.

Odinn's Log, 16.2

Fuel stop. Slight problem, pump is declining my card and I can't be bothered messing around with pre-pay in the shop. Knutr OK. I'm not desperate, so will try at another station.

3 Danish Hell's Angels on Harleys, proving how tough they are by parking in a disabled bay.

Not far to the hotel now.

Odinn's Log, 16.1

A bright and sunny morning but more motorway riding, so pretty boring. Stopped for fuel, getting me back on track, after I cocked up yesterday.

Enforced stop next, to pay for bridge crossing, which we weren't expecting, so the usual  messing about with gloves, etc. Knutr got off his bike whilst I was fiddling with change but the girl wouldn't let him pay unless he was on the bike! His mood wasn't helped further by her rejecting the mixture of Swedish and Danish coins he had in his pocket!

Now stopped  for coffee and so Knutr can change his socks. Wet boots from yesterday!

Day 15 cont'd

DOH, pressed the wrong button.

I needed my flashlight on the phone to be able to read the menu. Knutr had spare ribs, me a chilli con carne. The EP had had it's pictures of Churchill and some medals on the wall, RMG's had a fireplace that was once in a house owned by John Lennon, no less. Having eaten and watered, we moved on to bar/pub number 3 of the 'pub crawl', the Scottish pub. About as popular as the EP, we were the only people inside I think, though there was a group of about 12 english blokes outside on the pavement. I'd ordered a Grimbergen, which ran out just short of a full glass. Off went the guy to change the barrel. We sat waiting at the bar. When the barman came back he topped up the glass and handed it over. Knutr took him to task, telling him he couldn't serve from 2 different barrels. Relunctantly the guy poured a fresh glass. I would probably have just taken it without question, but thanks to Knutr for taking a stand.

Once that was finished it was back to the hotel, past the Tivoli Gardens, which is basically a big amusement park, slap bang in the centre of the city. There were a few screams from some of the rides. 

The evening had dried up nicely and tomorrow is looking to be dry and sunny once more. We'll end the day back in th euro zone, in Germany, where the beers should be much cheaper!

Day 15

Not much to say. Shite day. In cricketing parlance, the covers have been on all day, though rain didn't quite stop play.

After checking in and sorting our stuff out, the rain did eventually stop, so we grabbed the opportunity to go and do some sightseeing.

We took a short walk to the water bus stop and took the 992 to the Norde Toldbod stop, where we took a walk around the old fortress and up to the famous mermaid statue. As we got there, the sun made it's frst appearance of the day. Yippee!  Having taken our photos, we got the 991 back to the Bibliotek stop and then walked up the happening part of town, for something to eat and drink. First we tried the English Pub for a pint. Beer OK but only about 4 people there and no atmosphere.  3 doors down we went into Rosie McGee's for some food and another pint. Altogether more atmosphere than the EP and a lot busier, though the place was both very warm and extremely dark. I needed

Odinn's Log, 15.3

So, we get to the toll booths. I join the queue that says motorcycles, vans, caravans, etc. Knutr decides he's going in to one marked for cars. To be fair, we had read that blue meant an auto toll and you could use your card, yellow was a manually operated booth.

Well, he got through quicker than I did but I wondered if it asked what vehicle you were. It didn't, so instead of €29, he's probably paid €54, for a car.

The trip across the bridge was pretty awful. Driving wind and rain and no real view to speak of. Yesterday this would have been a stunning crossing. 3 times we have paid for a view and the weather has screwed us. Oh well.

Got to the hotel and secured an underground parking space, so at least the bikes are safe and dry.

Hoping the weather dries up, so we can see some of the city.

Tomorrow the forecast is dry and sunny again! Might help dry Knutr's kit.

Odinn's Log, 15.2

So, here we are just outside Malmo, having a fuel and food stop. It has been raining hard the entire journey. A journey not without casualties. The water got the better of my duct taped flag and I've had to leave it behnd. In this far off foreign service area, lives a part that is forever  England.

And Knutr's boots have decided to ship water, despite their goretex lining. I fear his gloves, protected by tesco plastic bags, have faired no better.

In a few minutes we will be at the toll booth for the Oresund crossing and the finding money/cards with wet hands and gloves fiasco that is sure to ensue.

25 miles from our digs in Copenhagen.

Odinn's Log, 15.1

Sunday, bloody wet sunday!

As glorious as Goteburg was yesterday, it was the pits this morning. A light showering when we awoke, turned into full blown (literally) rain.

We had planned a stop at another castle but that went by the wayside and we made an early fuel stop instead. 40 or so miles on and we've made a coffee stop in McDonalds. As much to get out of the rain as anything else.  We'll probably make another stop for fuel before we head across the Oresund bridge/tunnel into Denmark.  Let's hope the weather has improved by then.

Day14

Great weather, boring riding though.

Not a great deal to say that hasn't already been said. Motorway all the way today, as the alternative was many many hours longer. Stopped for fuel and we both managed to off load our Norwegian change. All bar NOK 5. Another stop saw Knutr topping up and feeding Steven (Steven Seagull), though the bird nearly helped himself to the whole bun, bag and all!

The next scheduled stop, went by without us actually fueling up. An oversight on behalf of the tour guide. No matter, the Sprint should be able to go to Knutr's next stop tomorrow, such is its frugality.

Our stop at the Bohus Fortress was next, a 14th Century castle, originally built when this part of the world was Norwegian. It's a bit like trigger's broom though, as most of the old bits were demolished and so it mostly dates from 17th or even 19th centuries. Still, it's large and worth a visit. We seemed to walk into a guided tour in Swedish and trying not to get in the way, I suddenly found myself amongst a group of people in period costume, who were about to start a little performance, for the people, mostly kids, who were being warmed up downstairs. Next thing the music starts playing and everyone comes up the stairs. Meanwhile, Knutr appears stage left and sits in the middle of the seating around the room. I moved so all the kids could sit but I now have a shot of Knutr surrounded by kids as the performance commenced.

The castle was only about 10 miles from the hotel, so we were soon parked up and unloading the bikes. Tomtom is useful in most cases. The hotel has a small courtyard, with space for 5 cars. I'd prebooked a space, to make sure the bikes were safe and sound.

We took a walk down the road and jumped on the Paddan boat trip, a 50 minute trip around the canals and harbour of the city. Some of the bridges are really low, one so low in fact, that we all had to lean forward to avoid a clout on the bonce. It was an interesting trip, definitely not something you'd want to do if the weather was poor. Luckily, we were bathed in sunshine, as we had been most of the day. Tomorrow might not be so nice.

We'll end the day tomorrow , back in Denmark, traversing the Oresundsbron bridge/tunnel on the way, finishing up in Copenhagen.

Odinn's Log, 14.2

Our first stop in Sweden was a top up fuel stop for Knutr. Disappointing to find they want money for you to have a wee. Nobody seems to though, just waiting for somone to come out.

We are now stopped for a bit of culture at Bohus Castle, where a bird decided to shit on my topbox! :-(

Odinn's Log, 14.1

Blessed with another warm sunny day, we made our way out of Oslo and pretty soon made our fuel stop. It was also a chance to offload most of our  Norwegian change.

Just made another stop for a wee and drink. Still in Norway. We are on a dual carriageway heading south and tavelling the fastest we have gone whilst in Norway, 70mph!

Got another seagull pal for company.

Day 13

A short day, taking in the Gardnos meteor crater and the Viking Museum. Nothing to see at the first to be honest, it wasn't open anyway but the Viking museum was well worth the visit. 3 Viking longboats from the 10th century AD, sit in residence, all recovered from burial sites. When someone important died, they would haul a ship out of the water, dig a hole for it, then fill it with the deceased and things for the afterlife, a bit like the Egyptians used to do. It would then be covered with earth, to form a burial mound. They are impressive ships and somehow make the whole Viking thing real, after only reading about them in books or seeing them in TV programmes.

A few miles up the road and we were parking up in the street, about 50 metres away from the hotel. Washed and brushed up, we took a walk over to the Oslo Opera House. This striking building has a sloping roof that you can walk up and onto. What better place to have an ice cream? After taking the scenic shots, we were entertained by some seagulls, who were far from shy, so close up pictures were easily possible. The sun had been blazing down all day, so another great day of riding and now, I'd got my legs out for the first time, wearing my shorts. We did a bit more walking around the city, taking in the underwhelming cathedral, before making our way to The Dubliner pub, just a few doors down from the hotel. We had dinner, Knutr, fish 'n' chips, me spare ribs, washed down with 3 pints each. It is our last night in Norway! If you say it quickly, £27 for 3 pints doesn't sound a lot, does it? No, you're right, it sounds bleedin' expensive. Hey ho! It's not the most expensive beer we've had.

As we left the pub, we noticed a pretty young lady standing across the road, then 2 more by our hotel, one on the corner of the hotel, one across the street. It dawned on us that they probably weren't all coincidentally, waiting for their boyfriends to pick them up after work, rather this was work!

A bit later, Knutr went down to his bike to get his phone charger (least that's what he told me) and came back, saying one of the girls had said something to him which he took to be an offer of some sort. Not sure if he's chuffed or shocked that he's been propositioned by a prossie at the ripe old age of 65!  I wonder if he would have got a pensioner discount, like at the Viking museum? LOL!

Tomorrow we leave Norway and head into Sweden, spending the night in Gothenburg.

 

Odinn's Log, 13.2

Couldn't ask for better weather. Dry and sunny. The ride down to the Viking museum in Oslo was very relaxed, (even allowing for the bird that I had to duck to avoid) until Oslo itself, which became quite manic. We made it there and to our hotel ok. Well, not quite. I took a wrong turn and ended up going the wrong way on the motorway! Luckily the next junction was only 1.1km away. Made Knutr chuckle. Remember Bologna big boy?

Odinn's Log, 13.1

A short ride to the Gardnos meteor crater. This and the one in Arizona are the 2 most scientifically interesting meteor sites on the planet, I believe. Not much to see.

Day 12

It was a chilly start to the day, 5 or 6 degrees but that was positively tropical to what was to come. It was overcast but the roads were mainly dry, wich is always a good sign on these twisty roads. We stopped at the first petrol station we came to, to have some breakfast and then set off for our first scheduled stop of the day, at the Skjervsfossen waterfall. Tomtom failed to give us any instructions on the approach to the turnoff, so just as well I was paying attention to what was showing on the screen. They have made these falls into a miniture nature type trail, with walkway leading down into the valley, alongside the falls. These are quite impressive, though the walk back up the trail is quite strenuous, even for an athlete like me ;-)

The toilets were strange to say the least, with a large floor to ceiling window, overlooking the river and part of the floor glazed!  Halfway down the vally, the falls run under the road, so we stopped there to get a better view. A nice touch, was a disabled bay marked on the side of the road. As we carried on, heading towards our next waterfall, we were once again treated to some gloriously twisty roads, before encountering the most incredible series of tunnels. Looping around and over themselves, first left, then right, then left again, we finally exited at the Vorringfossen waterfall. As I parked up, I saw Knutr go sailing passed the entrance. I'd waved but he hadn't seen. His tomtom is working today, so I was sure he'd be back and sure enough a minute or so later, he appeared.

After taking some photos and a coffee, we were back on the road, climbing once again. Up and up we climbed, back into another snow covered landscape, the road lined by long poles, for when it is covered with snow. Up there it was bloomin' cold and in places, very windy. We rode through a mixture of sunshine and cloud cover. At this altitude though, the sun had little or no strength, least not with the wind. The road was a joy to ride with many sweeping bends but I was so cold, apart from my hands (heated grips a godsend) that I just couldn't wait for it to end. I have no idea how many miles we were on that frozen plateau  but it seemed like it was never going to end. End it did though and we pulled into a garage, for a warming cuppa and a hotdog.

The rest of the trip to our digs, was uneventful, getting warmer by the mile. By the time we reached the hotel, the sun was blazing and the temperature was in the high teens. As we unpacked our gear though, we were reminded of our time in the frozen wasteland, as everyting felt so cold.  The sky is clear now and the forecast looks like being good for tomorrow and our ride into Oslo, though I expect we'll have a chilly start.

One thing to report. No issues with the alarm this morning. It's possible it was being interfered with by a transmitter or something yesterday, so seems I can relax.

Something I've been meaning to say for days now and that is just how clean this country is. You would have to look seriously hard to find any litter anywhere. Back home the verges and hedgerows are littered with all sorts of shit but here neither in town, nor out in the wilds, is there a scrap of anything. Truly amazing and something we should aspire to. Ha, some hope!

Odinn's Log, 12.5

A leisurely pace, 70kph, into Gol, where we spend our penultimate night in Norway. Stopped off for a fuel stop in Al, where I was registering 2200 miles since leaving home. Heading south east tomorrow, for Oslo.

Odinn's Log, 12.4

The sun is shining, the roads bone dry but we have come across a mountain plateau that is both bloody cold and quite windy. Scenery, as always, is fantastic. Picture is of Buskerud Fylke, I think.

Odinn's Log, 12.3

Get your 3 year old daughter to scribble on some paper, then take the 'design' and build some tunnels in the mountain. We're at the Vorringfossen waterfall, reached via the aforementioned tunnels. Spiralling first one way, then the other, they are quite remarkable. Only in Norway I suspect. Fuel stop next up. Weather dry but chilly. Roads dry and as much fun as always. 😊

Odinn's Log, 12.2

Skjervsfossen waterfall.

Odinn's Log, 12.1

No brekkie at the digs, plan was to stop at first garage. P&O cruise liner  Britannia had berthed up overnight, as we climbed out of the town. A tad chilly. Even more so after exiting a tunnel. Almost straight away we entered an 11km tunnel. Blam! Instant visor fogging, as the tunnel was nice and 'warm'. All part and parcel of riding in Norway. Did my first overtake too. Well, what else is there to do in almost 7 miles of darkness?

Day 11

Another brilliant day of riding.

Wet, though not raining when we left Garmo, we had a short stop in Lom, to take in a fantastic wooden stave church. The back side smelt of burning and was blakened, so not sure if it has had a fire recently or not. A very impressive structure but again they wanted £7 to go inside! No thanks.

From Lom we took the RV55 Sognefjellet tourist route south. It was at ths point that Knutr's tomtom decided not to work any more, saying it couldn't plan a route, so he was left to rely on me leading the way. Starting at fjord level, RV55 gradually climbs and twists higher and higher, into the snow covered granite monsters that we have become used to. At one point, we were stopped at road works and whilst waiting, we watched people skiing on the slope alongside us. Bonkers! The route down again is equally twisty and spectacular and not a little scary in places. Coming up a rise and seeing only sky, then a drop off the side of the new tarmac, focuses the mind. There are no barriers to stop you ending up in a frozen lake!

When we got down it was time for a coffee, before finishing this part of our journey at the Manheller ferry. Once again, by pure fluke, we timed it to perfection, though it was a close call for Knutr, who had to dismount to get his money out, meaning I had to dawdle getting on board, to make sure they didn't raise the ramp without hm He should have just done what the German camper driver in front of me did and just drive straight passed the two young guys collecting the fares.

From the ferry, it's a short way to the start of another tourist route, the Aurlandfjellet route. More of the same, so narrow, twisty roads, with the occasional sheep, rising into the sky to a snow covered plateau, before decending again to the warmth and greenery. Along this route is the Stegastein viewpoint. A walkway that hangs out over the rock face, to give a superb view of the Sogne fjord hundreds of feet below and the town of Aurland. These Norwegians like to make the most of these natural wonders and haven't been shy in spending money to ensure each one is an experience for the tourist. More narrow, tight and twisty road leads you down to Aurland. One the way we had a jam, with a camper having to back up passed us (we can't backpedal up hill) to allow those coming up hill to pass. Could have been interesting if we hadn't stopped where we did.

In Aurland it was time to fuel up again. No problem, until it came time to restart and my alarm wouldn't disengage. In that state, I'm basically stuck, as the engine is imobolised. After a mild panic, pointing the fob somewhere near where I imagine the control unit to live, brought it back to life. When we reached our digs though, it still didn't seem to be right, making some ad-hoc bleeps. Hopefully, whatever the issue is will have righted itself after a night's rest, else Knutr may be continuing on his own. 

Tomorrow, we will head east, for our penultimate full day in Norway, staying in a place called Gol.

Odinn's Log, 11.4

Arrived at our digs but not without a scare, when alarm refused to disengage at the fuel stop. Finally got it to work but have the feeling something isn't right and this won't be the last you hear of this.

Odinn's Log, 11.3

So having taken in RV55, you may as well hit the Aurlandsfjellet, which will take you up more twisty roads, to another winter wonderland, then down to the Stegastein viewpoint, overlooking Aurland and an arm of the Sogne fjord. Another brilliant ride and captured on Gopro.

Odinn's Log, 11.2

Now on the Manhaller ferry having completed 80 or more miles of RV55 , the Sognefjellet Tourist route. Absolutely bleedin' brilliant. If you only do one of the tourist routes in Norway, then make it this one. It has everything. So pumped at the moment. Weather dry and sunny again. ;-)

Odinn's Log, 11.1

First stop Lom Stave Church, a magnificent structure. Now we are up the Sognefjellsvegen with the skiers!

Day 10

Today we came down from the high of yesterday and riding the Trollstigen and Atlantic Road. It wasn't helped by the fact that when we awoke, it was raining hard. As if that didn't dampen the spirits enough, yours truly then managed to scratch one of the panniers on the wall, as I was moving the bike. Nothing major but annoying nonetheless.  Breakfast was to be had at the Astoria in town, owned by the brother of our host. Handy, except it's a 5 minute ride away. We walked in dripping and sat down to fill our faces.

The rain had eased off as we left, to return to Molde. Not for the ferry this time though, as we were taking a different route back down the country, so took the under fjord tunnel route instead. We did still have a ferry crossing to make and as before, we arrived at just the right time, only having to wait for the  contents to be disgorged onto the quayside. On board we squeezed past a coach and line up at the front. Waiting patiently with our money ready, the guy never came to take a fare off us, so we got a freebie.

We were soon making a fuel stop by which time the weather had totally turned and the sun was shining. Waterproofs were removed and we continued down a valley, bordered by high cliffs, with the usual cascading waterfalls. A river ran alongsde the road for miles and miles.  These huge mountains stand opposite each other, like two heavtweight boxers standing eye to eye at a weigh in, tall, proud and fearsome, whilst the rivers can be the calmest, meekest stretches one minute, then the most aggressive and angry looking white water, the next. Both are a sight to behold. The river beside us was no exception. Gradually the landscape changed again, the mountains became more rounded and lower. Agriculture returned to the landscape once more and it was cows we now saw,  not sheep.

Soon we came into a town called Dombas. which is the busiest place we have seen since leaving Bergen I'd say. This was our lunch stop. We opted for the usual, a big sausage ( £18 for a burger, come on) but something got lost in translation I think, as instead of  roll, it came in a flimsy wrap. Still, it filled a gap and came with a drink, for a third the price of the burgers. 

We grabbed this opportunity to pick up some more cans of beer in the Kiwi supermaket and an ice cream. We weren't  in any rush, so took a look in the church before continuing on our way. 50 miles later, we were skirting a beautifiul turqoise fjord and approaching our digs. That's when the rain began. Some 6 hours later, it is still lashing down and looks to be set for tomorrow too. That will be a shame, as we have our last two tourist routes on the agenda tomorrow, including the Stegastein viewing platform. We've not had much luck with most of those though, so expectations are low.  We'll see.

Day 10 Photos

The sign said moose and Knutr seems to have found himself one!

Day 9 Photos

Trollstigen, Stigfossen and the Altantic Road. Bloody brilliant!

Day 8 Photos

A glacier, snowbank and the Gerainger fjord. All striking in their own way.

Day 7 Photos

Bergen to Viksdalen and a very twisty mountain pass.