Monday, 14 August 2017

Finally, there's some photos!

Let me start by apologising for taking so long to put these photos together but I have to say, it is hard and time consuming, to scan through the best part of 800 or so pictures and to choose a small selection, that I think you might like. If I had my way, I'd just publish the lot but that is more than likely to send you all to sleep before the end of Day 3, as I've already discovered!

I hope you enjoy the selection. I've tried to make it a varied one. Waterfalls and spectacular vistas can be very nice but you'd soon get bored with looking at nothing but those. It's different when you are actually there, experiencing the power of the water or the sheer height and scale of the mountains.

To access the photos (and I hope it works) scroll down to where it says Scandinavian Tour Photos on the right hand side and click on the aerial photo of the Atlantic Road below. That should take you to the tour album on Flickr. If not, then please post a comment so I know what's happening and I'll do my best to sort it out.

And with that, I'll leave you to the photos.  Enjoy.

Thanks

Odinn

Tuesday, 1 August 2017

Lies, damned lies, and statistics

Well, it's taken me a while but I did promise some statistics. Despite the title of this post, there won't be any lies. Some things may be hard to believe but believe me, they are true.

So, here we go.

  • The trip covered 3622.5 miles. (Knutr covered about another 900 miles)

During those, the Sprint 

  • used 262.92 litres of fuel or 57.84 gallons, costing £318.31
  • returned an average of 12.25 miles per litre or 55.67 miles per gallon
  • and cost an average of 9p per mile

  • We travelled through 7 countries.
  • We rode on at total of 8 ferries, 1 waterbus and a canal tour boat....
  • .....and through untold tunnels
  • We twice we saw people skiing off to the side of the road.
  • We stopped at, at least 7 waterfalls.....
  • ....and travelled on one funicular railway. 

In Norway, our most expensive drinks, were in a bar in Stavanger, where we paid NOK220 for 2 beers, (see below). That's approximately £21.

Best make it last Knutr!

In a brew pub in Flam, we were at our most extravagant and spent £37.60 on 4 x 500ml beers!, yet we somehow managed to come away with about 40% of the NOKs we took with us. Probably down to the junk food we were eating.

Overall, we were very lucky (lucky in summer to have sun?) but it did rain in every single one of the 7 countries we rode through. I think you can make that all 9 for Knutr.

No word of a lie though, we both had a fantastic time and a wonderful experience. The views were stunning, the waterfalls majestic, the mountains, well mountainous and the fjords either dark and foreboding or turquoise and tranquil.

The roads were exciting in the main, one, scary in the extreme and on the whole, of a very good standard, as many had recently been re-surfaced.

The tunnels were simply amazing, going up, down and around, some brightly lit, others near pitch black. Some long, some short, some warm, some cold, some wet, some dry. Not to mention those with roundabouts, deep inside the hillside or those exiting the side of a mountain straight onto a bridge over the water.

It's a month since we set off and already it seems like an age ago. The memories will fade but I have loads of photos to remind me of what we saw and got up to and I promise, my next post will confirm that I have sorted some and attached them to the blog.

For now though, that's it.

Storseisundet Bridge, The Atlantic Road




Monday, 24 July 2017

Day 19

Day 19, the final day of the the tour, should have seen these two intrepid explorers ride triumphantly back into Blighty, heads held high. As it turned out, they pretty much crept in the back entrance, due to Eurotunnel's inexplicable handling of the queueing system.

Knutr had somehow managed to transport himself onto the train before the one we were scheduled to leave on, meaning he was already under the Channel, whilst I was still sitting waiting for him. A rather disappointing end to the 19 days, as we both rode home separately. Still, it did give me the chance to stretch the Sprint's legs on the M20, after a good couple of weeks 'crawling' around Scandinavia.

Arriving back, the bikes were unpacked and parked up in the garage. The sprint had covered 3,622.5 miles since rolling off the driveway on 2nd July. Apart from the scare with the alarm on our fuel stop in Aurlandsvengen, and losing a headlamp bulb, she hadn't missed a beat. I adjusted the chain once and re-oiled it once. Apart from that, she just needed fuelling up. Knutr's Shadow too, had been faultless and he, of course, still had another four hundred odd miles to go.

That evening we had the customary end of tour dinner, another trip to the chinese in the village and Knutr finished off his Murphy's beers I'd bought for him. Four cans, for the price of one in Norway!

As the dust settles, the washing gets done and the photos get uploaded, life gets back to normal and thoughts turn to the next adventure. Where to next?

As I said before, I'll pop up some stats very soon and also hope to get some photos together for access from the blog, so the curtain isn't down just yet.

In the meantime though, I'd just like to say thanks for reading and I'll leave you with a picture of the Trollstigen.




Friday, 21 July 2017

Odinn's Log 19.7

Well, explain that to me. Can only be attributed to the luck of the Irish.

Parked up waiting for Knutr, I went for a wee.  Came out, no sign of him. Checked phone, just as the battery died. Thought I saw a message from Knutr as the screen faded.

Call to board came on, so I headed through. Maybe with the delay at passport control they have sent him straight through I thought. I get through, still no sign. I try to hook phone up to power but get waved on. On the platform I again attempt to connect the phone and get told we're going up front so no time, as we roll straight on.

Once in the carriage, I was able to get the phone some power. Just enough to read a message from Knutr, saying he is on board and I'm to wait for him. OK, I'm up front, I reply.

As we pulled out it dawned on me that his message had come before I left the car park, so he might be on a different train.

At Folkestone I waited until the eurotunnel van came up the ramp. As I suspected, no Knutr.

I made my way home, rolling up to see Knutr sitting outside.

How on earth? You'll have to ask him about that.

With us both safely back in Chatham, the tour was over. 

I'll back with some stats, so check back again soon.

Odinn's Log 19 6

Refreshed and cooled down, our next stop was Bruges. We encountered a shower or two on the way and even once there but we quickly found a place to park (after a tomtom issue this time) and walked into the market square, so Knutr could take some photos.

Back on the road, we had the blast down to Calais. I always like this part of any trip. Not sure why, the road isn't that great and there's the fiasco with the French security check, where they shunt everything off the motorway, round a roundabout and back on again, just so four gendarmes can look at you! Tossers.

Arrived at Le Tunnel with a bit of time to spare. I sailed through check in and passport control. Knutr last seen was a bit behind queuing for British passport control.

Next stop Blighty.

Odinn's Log, 19.5

Leaving Steenbergen we made a pit stop so Knutr could fuel up. The sky up ahead looked really threatening, so I decided to go for full wets. Knutr chose intermediates. As it turned out, the latter choice was probably the right one, because despite some small showers, the weather was generally ok.

This left me overheating and sweating for most of the next stint, which included negotiating Antwerp.

The traffic on the Antwerp ring road was chocca as usual. We were almost clear when I peeled off too early and took us into some small suburb. At first I thought I could bluff it out by pulling in a garage for a coffee stop but the garage was just pumps, no shop or anything.

The fiasco that followed, taking 3 further wrong turns can only be attrubuted to my overheating and misreading Tomtom. I can't even blame the equipment this time. Anyway after wasting the best part of 20 minutes trying to get back on track, we finally got back on the correct road, probably just a few hundred metres from where I went wrong. Now stopped for fuel and lunch stop, where the waterproofs have been stowed.

Phew!

Thursday, 20 July 2017

Odinn's Log 19.4

From the memorial it was on to the crash site of the mosquito in which he died and the streets named after him and his co-pilot Warwick.

Odinn's Log, 19.3

Having visited the grave of  Guy Gibson, we continued to a local park where there is a memorial, consisting of a three bladed propeller mounted on a stone plinth.

Next up his crash site.

Odinn's Log, 19.2

Leggings went on and that seems to have been the right move. Stopped in Steenbergen, at the cemetery. Paying our respects to THE most famous Dambuster, Wing Commander Guy Gibson.

Odinn's Log, 19.1

Fuel stop, first of several today. Also adjusting luggage, as I noticed my pannier had popped open slightly.

Sky looking very threatening, so watetproofs on as a precaution.

Wednesday, 19 July 2017

Day 18

Day 18 started in glorious sunshine and ended the same way!

Not many miles today and what we did were mainly motorway miles, so we took it easy. Stops were made for fuel, on the djik by the Zuiderzee and at a cheese factory. We had scheduled another fuel stop but strangely, the pumps were on one side of the road, the pay kiosk on the other. Not sure how that was supposed to work, so we moved on. Then the next was on the wrong side of the dual carriageway.Thanks Tomtom.We'll make an early stop tomorrow.

We've quite a few miles to go tomorrow and a deadline to hit, the eurotunnel crossing back to blighty, so I'll have to keep my eye on timings, seeing we have a few stops planned.

We made the most of the few hours we had in Amsterdam, taking a tram to Centraal Station and then walking up to the flower market. By the time we'd had a couple of beers and some KFC dinner, it was almost Knutr's bedtime, so we had a very brief scout around the red light district before heading back. Knutr was happy to see one girl in the window but we may as well have not bothered. Probably too early for them. We saw more in the street in Oslo!

So, our last day of the tour begins tomorrow. It's not clear what the weather will do just yet but we'll be ready for rain if it comes. All in all though, we've been pretty fortunate with the weather.

Till tomorrow then, I'll leave you with the sun setting over Amsterdam and for the last time on the Wild Hogs Scaninavian Tour.

Odinn's Log, 18.3

Next stop, a cheese and clogs factory in Edam. Didn't look like they were really prepared for visitors. Guy gave a half hearted or should that be arsed guided tour. I tried my hand at making a clog with an old tool (not Knutr), then we both sampled some cheeses. Knutr bought one made with stinging nettles, which are apparently good for you, unless you fall in a clump of them in your swimming trunks, that is.

As we left the sky looked very dark and we did have a few spots. That means, it has rained in every single one of the 7 countries we been in on the tour.

Luckily, we just grazed the edge of the cloud and it was soon dry again.

Very muggy in Amsterdam. Landlord showed a picture of Rotterdam earlier. Looked to be a terrible storm raging, so we may get wet later, on our final night of the tour.

Odinn's Log, 18.2

Arrived at the Breezanddijk. Probably as technologically marvellous, as the Oresund bridge/tunnel.

Odinn's Log, 18.1

We are blessed with warm dry weather again as we begin our penultimate day on tour.

Our first stop of the day was for fuel, 10 miles before Gronningen. The route has been all motorway. I didn't plan any particular route for today, just put in our stops, so we are at the mercy of TomTom.  We're making a quick comfort break before our next scheduled stop midway along the Breezanddijk.

Tuesday, 18 July 2017

Day 17

A brilliant day riding cross country today. Stopping off to walk around Gluckstadt, a 400 year old former capital of the Holstein lands on the banks of the lower Elbe, we took in the harbour, along which many original buildings still stand. Then a short way down stream, took the ferry across the mighty river.

The ride on the other side was just as good, with the sun now blazing. Marred only by a slight detour, due a) to me missing a turnoff (it's not easy without the voice directions, now cardo has packed up) and b) the road just after being closed for roadworks. Still, we were soon back on track.

The final part of the journey was almost dead straight for well over 30 miles I reckon, as we ran parallel with the Kusten Kanal. It was great for overtaking the slower traffic and also watching the antics of the German car drivers. Mind you, we had to be wary as they sometimes came towards us on our side of the road. I had to dab the brakes once for one such clown.

Papenburg where we are staying is a former ship building town and there are quite a few references around the hotel, which sits by a canal. The surroundings though all look pretty modern, so I'm wondering if shipyards, etc were reclaimed.

A walk took us up to a huge windmill, our second of the day and into Jameson's Pub. Trying to be Irish, it failed, mainly because of the English red telephone box inside.  We grabbed a couple of beers and sat outside overlooking a park and lake, before finding our way to McDs for our tea. The only other eatery we saw open was Turkish and we didn't fancy that after Greek last night.

On our travels, we spotted an Aston Martin, with UK plates on it. Not a model I recognised, a Z(?) with a rear light cluster I'd never seen before either. Stranger still, it was left hand drive. Blow me though, if when we got back to the hotel, there wasn't a Vanquish, again with UK plates and again with left hand drive. If anyone can enlighten me, feel free.

We popped into the bar for another beer and sat watching this strangely dressed, i.e. in green shirt, trousers, jacket and socks (not all the same shade though) man, with 3 young women. Reminded us of a guy we saw in Athlone back in 2012, a peacock (more cock actually) surrounded by 3 young women.

Tomorrow we are making our way to Amsterdam. Hopefully the weather will be fine, though I suspect we may run into a rain storm. Fingers crossed.

Odinn's Log, 17.4

Arrived at our hotel after a great day of riding. Weather has been glorious again and much warmer than we were expecting.

The ride wasn't without incident though. I missed a turnoff that put us on the end of a traffic queue, as roadworks closed the dual carriageway. As we have found before in Germany, they don't always sign a diversion, so I had to reprogram Tomtom to find an alternative. For a while it was a bit fraught not knowing if we were heading in the right direction but once we picked up one of my waypoints I could relax.

The last part of the journey was really good, dare I say it, on one of the longest straight roads I've ridden since Route 66. Straight, yes  built alongside a canal and running for easily 10 miles. Superb for overtaking, as you could see for hundreds of yards. Who said you can only have fun on a motorcycle on twisty roads?

So here we are in Pappenburg, with our room overlooking a canal.

2 more days to go. ☹

Odinn's Log, 17.3

Might have been as many 5 ferries servicing that Elbe crossing.

Since then we have been scooting along some lovely country lanes.  Sun is out now and it's a pleasure to be riding.

Stopped for the necessities, fuel, food and fluid download!

I have over 3k miles up, since leaving blighty. Still a few more to go.

Odinn's Log, 17.2

On the ferry across the Elbe. A huge river.

Forgot to say earlier, that my cardo headset has packed up! 2nd one in as many tours. Think the rain must have somehow got into it. Had some crackling during that journey. Then next day seemed to be ok but lost charge quickly. After being on charge last night, it seems to have died completely. Luckily on 2.5 days to go without Jane guiding me.

This river is so wide they have 3 ferries in operation. Long queue to get on. Old boy on a bicycle waved to us to go up the front. We did and rode straight on. Result!

Odinn's Log, 17.1

Dry if overcast start to the day.  First stop to photograph a thatched windmill in the next town.  Stopped bikes in side of the road , cue car one way, massive tractor and trailer the other. Car backed off and we moved bikes into someone's driveway.

Back on the road, I made a fuel stop. No problem with credit card today.

Apart from a temporary stop at a level crossing, we have been bowling along some nice country lanes. Now stopped in Gluckstadt, a town on the banks of the  Elbe, known for its pretty square and harbour.

Ferry next up.

Monday, 17 July 2017

Day 16

Another day of motorway miles. Highlight of the trip had to be the toll bridge over the Great Belt. The view was quite something, everything in fact, that the Oresund crossing should have been yesterday. The motorway was very busy, full of campers, caravans and lorries, so we were kept busy, nipping out to pass, then in again as the faster traffic came up behind.

We joined the 7 route, which we had used on the way up 2 weeks ago and were soon crossing the German border. Denmark to Germany, no problems, except one. That being the switch from 110kph speed limit, to unlimited autobahn. You need to switch mindset slightly, as everything is soon moving that much faster. The border crossing going into Denmark though, was even worse than when we came up, with huge tailbacks waiting to go through the makeshift border control. I don't see the point. 

You enter Germany near Flensburg. They have a brewery there and it just so happens that the hotel has a fridge stocked full of Flensburger beer, which we shall be sampling later.  We have separate rooms here, mainly because they were such good value, about £40 per night. A far cry from the £100+ we have been paying in parts of Norway. The rooms are really spacious, least mine is. I booked 2 singles but I have twin beds in mine, a desk and loads of space. Tour guide perks ;-)

The downside of the hotel, is they don't do evening meals. Add to that, the fact it is in the middle of nowhere and the nearest restaurant is closed on Monday, it leaves us no option but to ride out for some dinner. Those beers will have to wait till we get back! The nearest open restaurant is about 6km up the road and is Greek. There seems to be a few Greek restaurants in this area for some reason. That opens at 17:00, so we'll be togging up soon, to pop up the road.

After a couple of motorway days, I have planned a cross country route tomorrow. If we stuck to motorways, we could probably be at the hotel in under 3 hours. That's not that much use, when you can't check in for hours though. The route I've planned will take double the time and includes the final ferry crossing of the tour, crossing the river Elbe. It'll keep us away from the maniacs on the autobahn too.

Just 3 nights of the tour left. I'll have to sart thinking about the next one!